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Most oil leakage could be stopped by a steel and leather seal fitted to the outer ends of the
bushings. A hole could be drilled in the metal part of the homemade seal and a piece of
copper tubing oil line soldered in so that it could pass through the seal and line up with the
bushing oil groove.
(2) Get the pieces of pipe for the overarm and spindle. For a low cost spindle, try a piece of
heavy drive shaft tubing. Since this and most other pipe is not truly round, try to get a light cut
taken off (machined on a lathe) whatever pieces of pipe that you are going to use. If you don't
have any way to smooth the pipes, remember that the word "lathe" came from "lath", a thin
springy piece of wood used long ago as a way to make a workpiece turn. Just mount the pipe
between two wooden supports (trees?), attach a rope to a spring or springy overhead limb, wrap
the rope around the pipe a few times and tie the end to some kind of a foot petal and "pump"
away. Polish the pipe with emery cloth as it spins back and forth! Primitive? Sure, but some of
the finest woodwork was once done this way.
The rest of the machine could be a much scaled up up version of a regular MultiMachine.
A final word. Using accurately made engine blocks as building blocks and also boring the
cylinders to fit the spindle bearings and the overarm means that the core of the machine is
accurate. The business end of the spindle is machined in place so that it is also accurate.
The cross slide can be done wrong but since it is a "bolt on" module, it can be adjusted or
even replaced
Pipe size, metric bearing and Morse Taper specifications
(In the US, try the bearing books at NAPA)