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or want a more accurate method, then with the block on its
back turn the plate over so that the punched and drilled holes
face the block and slide the center punched and drilled holes
over first two transfer screw points. One reason for drilling the
center punch marks is that you have to feel the "clicks" when
the transfer screws "fall" into the marked and drilled holes.
Keep inserting one transfer screw at a time to mark the rest of
the the holes.
When marking these holes be sure to keep your brain in gear so that you punch the right side of
the plate.
The vertical slide plate is done in the same way. Don't forget that many other holes have to
be drilled and tapped in the plates for the clamp mechanism.
Don't use heavy grease between the plates when you assemble the machine. Cool weather will
make the grease too sticky and this makes it difficult to raise the vertical slide in small
If all of this seems a little "jackleg", it probably is but it works extremely well!
Very important! Where should you mount the jack on your machine? I really don't know!
My outboard jack works beautifully except when I try lower the vertical slide a small amount. I
often have to lower it a bit too far and then raise it again to the exact height. The dial indicator is
vital here. What should you do? Most "knee" type milling machines have a large acme threaded
screw about two thirds of the way out from the inner edge of the vertical slide. It is more
complicated on a MultiMachine because the very heavy bed and carriage will probably be offset
to the left (facing the machine) side. I suggest you try a small jack such as a scissors jack, weld
some kind of a plate on top so that the top of the jack will not fall in a "hole" in the end of the
short engine block and try different jack positions until you find the best one.